Colombian Road Trip to Los Nevados - Day 2

Ibagué – Silencio – El Rancho – Silencio – Juntas

On day 2, we woke early to head to “El Rancho”.  Juan Carlos traveled there maybe 15 years ago.  As he remembered it, there were hot springs and a quaint little building with rooms to stay in.  The other option was to camp.  We reserved a “cabaña” for a bit more comfort.  To get to El Rancho we took a taxi into Ibagué, rented a Jeep to take us to Silencio, where the road ends.  From there we would need to hike in.  On the way to Silencio, the sky was clear and we were able to catch a glimpse of the snowcapped peak of Nevado Tolima.  Gorgeous!  This made me even more excited for our trip – of course. 

When we reached Silencio, Juan Carlos asked me if I wanted to ride a horse to El Rancho, instead of hiking.  I don’t really love horses but Juan Carlos used to play polo, so I agreed.  Small kink in the communication.  Juan Carlos only rented a horse for me!  Being the slightly neurotic, über-independent female that I am I had a minor fit…or maybe not so minor.  I did not discovered this detail until I was already on the horse and the horse was trotting away with me.  Juan Carlos was trying to be kind and I was mad that he thought I was too weak to hike in… poor guy, really.  I realize I can be a bit much to handle and he rolled with it pretty well.  I lasted about 10 minutes on the horse.  I was scared to death that I was going to fall off the horse or that the horse was going to fall off a cliff, and so we switched.  Juan Carlos road the horse, in expert fashion, as I hiked in.  A much better arrangement, if you ask me.  I think Juan Carlos was slightly embarrassed that people were going to think he wasn’t a gentleman because his girlfriend was walking while he had the easy ride into El Rancho.  This is just one of the many “lost in translation” moments we’ve had.  It makes things rocky at times, but they are learning moments and we’re surviving in spite of the craziness.

            By the time we arrived at El Rancho, I was in heaven.  The views were incredible, the air was crisp, and I was working up a bit of a sweat which was lovely because I NEVER workout in Colombia.  It felt wonderful.  Juan Carlos and I were quite surprised when we arrived, however.  There was no longer a quaint little cabin with rooms, only a shack with bunk beds, three outhouses, and a kitchen.  We later found out that this was due to the guerilla that had taken over the area about a decade back (very unfortunate).  We agreed within about ten minutes that we would not be staying here.  This after trying to get down a breakfast with a cow hanging from a peg on one side of use and another cow being butchered 10 feet away from us on the other side.  Not to mention the drips of blood on the bench we were seated upon and the hairy chunk of meat in our caldo.  I’m tough, but I’m not that tough.  After fueling up on as much of the food as we could stomach, we began our trek away from El Rancho sans horse.  The trek back was a bit more work because there is no transportation from Silencio at 9 am…only 4pm…and there is nothing in Silencio but a small store that sells snacks and drinks, two bathrooms, and some horses – seriously, that is it.  The hike to Juntas, where we would find our hotel was expected to be about 3 hours.  It turned out to only be 2 hours because we caught a ride for a short stint with two fellows on dirt bikes.  (In hindsight, getting on two separate bikes with two strangers in the middle of the woods was probably not the brightest idea – but we survived and were thankful for the break).  We also were able to pick up a ride from another Jeep heading back to Ibagué that dropped us off at the hotel.  

 

             The hotel was gorgeous, had HOT water (a luxury in these parts), horses roaming the premises, a river running alongside it, and delicious food.  We showered, had a nice long lunch, and then relaxed the rest of the day.  My body ached – but the good kind of ache – like when you were a kid and played outside all day and then were ready to pass out at 6pm.  That was us and it was certainly not in our plans to wind up at this hotel but it was heavenly.  For those interested in prices, this place was top notch and cost us $50 for the night (including breakfast) and our food including beer was maybe $20.